Suhani Lotlikar

Traveling back to the Victorian Era, Hysteria is set in the 1880’s. With an electrifying opinion (if I may say), the plot builds around 2 elements – the upper class of England and Hysteria, the than psychological disorder associated with women. It examines the social politics of the time with a hint of satire. Dr. Mortimer Granville, a young doctor struggles to establish himself. He is hired by Dr. Robert Dalrymple who is renowned for treating women diagnosed with hysteria using ‘pelvic massage’. During his practice, the story takes a loop on his interest in the doctor’s daughters. Dismissal of Dr. Mortimer due to his inconsistent performance leads him to test the electric feather duster, an invention by Lord Edmund St. John-Smythe converted into a massager.

Costume design: Nic Ede

Coming from the Late Victorian Period, the fashion styling seems to emphasize on fur clothing, bonnets, tail coats, waist coats, cravat (Ascot) ties and more. A detailed costume depiction can be observed in the movie where the bustle that made a re-appearance in 1883 is featured. Contradiction of costumes is majorly due to classes of the society. To study the same, we compared the necklines and hats of Molly, the maid to the women of high society who visit Dr. Dalrymple. Molly being portrayed as the maid of the house is styled in simpler fabrics and cuts. Her cleaning apron is minimally laced. Her outfits are featured only in dull and mundane colors as was required during the Late Victorian Era.

Dr. Dalrymple’s patients; Mrs. Castellari, Mrs. Parsons, Mrs. Pearce on the contrary are shown with hats were covered with elaborate creations of silk flowers, ribbons, and above all, entire exotic birds that had been stuffed. They were smaller in size and some even like the bonnets. Their dresses have been layered with meters of laces. Mrs. Castellari is particularly seen wearing an entire fox as a fur collar and carrying muffs too.

The debatable stripped clothing is seen on Charolette Dalrymple which was first introduced during this period. The silhouettes designed for her character, unlike other women of those times, is more momentous and comfortable. Her attire surely creates unwanted dialogue in the family and society. This look is famously known as the ‘Gibson Girl.’

To peak into men’s fashion of the 1880s, Dr. Mortimer is dressed formally in white shirts, waist coats, top hat, lounge suit and cravat. The lapels of the jacket were extremely narrow and small and the jacket fit close to the throat, barely revealing the necktie. A cutaway jacket was introduced during the 80s that allowed the bottom of the vest and the watch chain to be seen. 

Keeping aside the humorous perspective rendered by the director Tanya Wexler, one cannot turn a blind eye to the impeccable irony of societal systems that prevailed in those times. Changes were entertained only for the convenience of the upper class. As beautifully as it has been put, Hysteria is a movie worth the while.